A note from the Kumamoto International Confectionery Desk. One test discerning a 肥後っ子 (ひごっこ、Kumamotoite) from a person simply passing through is awareness of ikinaridango (いきなり団子). The uninitiated may confuse it with the Hakata (Fukuoka)-based daifuku due to their similar appearances. Do not fall for this. Locals may cut you some slack but will no doubt guffaw at your ignorance the moment your back is turned. This is because, though the outer layer is the same, made of either steamed flour or, more traditionally, mochi (a sticky form of pounded rice), the filling of the clearly deficient daifuku contains only red bean paste (あずき、小豆) - while the ikinaridango wraps the azuki with sweet potato (サツマイモ). Therein lies the magic, and never let anyone tell you otherwise. As a rare confectionery, it continues to be made traditionally in small shops, each with its own spin on what exactly いきなり団子 should be. (Disclaimer: My son loved the ikinaridango sold by the old woman who used to run the gift shop next to Ninomaru Park. We’d buy him one on our mid-way break from our 10K run. Sadly, she took her recipe with her to her grave.) The etymology apparently refers to a combination of a sudden appearance (ikinari) of a guest with the ease (ikinari) of creating the snack. Take note: Keeping plenty of steamed mochi, azuki, and satsumaimo on hand apparently was a thing.
Anyway, the conglomerate which produces KitKat has begun selling a product described as “いきなり団子味” - that is, “Taste of ikinaridango,” which to discerning diners is akin to when you see “crab” on a menu spelled with a “k”: “krab.” The good news is that 10 yen from the sale of each 11-piece pack goes towards Kumamoto reconstruction. The better news is that, now that you know what いきなり団子 is, you can more directly support Kumamoto residents - and establish yourself as a connoisseur of local delicacies - by visiting local shops to buy the real thing. And don’t shy away from heated comparisons with other いきなり団子 purveyors: that’s half of the fun. - William
