My wife’s grandmother, Kikukawa-baachan, and uncle have lived in Yabe forever, so I’ve spent much time there over my 25 years in Japan, and during that time, absolutely nothing has changed (although grandma has cut back on her gardening; she is 97, after all). The locals, invariably rice farmers, are as conservative as they come. If a new rice cultivation practice is suggested, for example, they’ll collectively remember that so-and-so-san had tried that to poor results back in 18, requiring one to confirm the reign era (18 what? Meiji? Taisho? Showa? Heisei?) - these people have long memories, so one can never be certain.

And they drink. A lot. Of shochu. Why not? - between sowing and reaping and during the winter, there’s not much to do aside from gossiping about Kikukawa-baasan’s exotic grandson-in-law - and drink. A favorite local brew is Tsujun Syuzou (通潤酒造), utilizing the crystal spring waters and golden rice of the region. The brewery is inviting guests in October to help hand-harvest rice and enjoy a BBQ, sake, and beer afterwards. The cost is 2,000 yen, and reservations are required. One can get there by bus from Kotsu Center. Info is below. - William

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