A student of mine brought this year-old news to my attention. Some 80% of Japanese igusa (the rush used to make tatami) is grown in Yatsushiro. However, a combination of igusa imports from China and a drop in demand for tatami as Japanese increasingly opt for wooden floors has put local growers on the mat, so to say.

A growing option is alternative uses for the grass. One some entrepreneurial locals baked up is edible chopsticks. Apparently, they’re crunchy and make a good dessert. Mainichi has more, including ordering info for those behind on Christmas shopping. - William