New Years is imminent, and Kumanichi reports the Shinto priesthood (shinshoku, 神職 - a new term for me, literally “god job,” as I’ve always referred to them as kannushi 神主, but perhaps the latter only includes males, while the former may include the female miko 巫女) is as busy as KFC workers on Christmas eve. There’s lots of stuff to buy: the hamaya (破魔矢, a ceremonial arrow to drive off evil in case that’s necessary), figurines of Ebisu (god of prosperity) and Daikokuten (大黒天, god of good fortune, but rather more aggressive than jolly Ebisu), Daruma (達磨, red-painted good-luck doll in the shape of Bodhidharma with a blank eye to be filled in when a year’s goal is complete - he’s always watching, see), and sundry other items.

New Years here is absolutely silent until the stroke of midnight, when people begin their Hatsumōde (初詣, the first shrine visit of the year), when all pandemonium is unleashed. This lasts for about three days. My house borders Zehou Shrine (是法神社) so the period is rather cacophonous - but enjoyable. We visit several shrines during this time.

To our readers: Which shrines do you recommend?

Happy New Year from all at Kumamoto International - William