William Without an understanding of the Hosokawa clan, understanding of Kumamoto is not possible. A bit of a long but important read: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hosokawa_clan Various relics from their reign remain, one of which is their old house which is located on the east side of Ninomaru (within the confines of the historic castle perimeter). It has not often been open to the public since renovation work began after the quakes. Kumanichi reports that it will be open to visitors until 12/3. A visit not only gives insight into how the high and mighty lived in that era (answer: pretty poorly, by today’s standards) but also some lovely autumn leaves. Parking is available nearby, and the castle circuit bus stops in front. https://kumanichi.com/articles/1236395