William　Once was a time that the only way to travel to Kagoshima to Kumamoto was via the coast. With the advent of the expressway, though, the route has turned into a seldom-used backwater with its chain of small towns withering. Yet this adds to its charm, particularly if you have a few days and a tent (all you need can be purchased at a single outing to Hirose - avoid those expensive “trekking” shops) . Even a map is not required, though a bit of advanced research on onsen locations is recommended to plan overnight stays. Remember, you can camp anywhere as long as you leave your site as you found it. Gaijinpot has an article on the phenomenon of cranes gathering from Siberia in the wintered rice paddies of Izumi. Farmers leave gleanings of rice and the birds plenty of guano, so it’s a win-win. Best is to plan three or four days for a leisurely drive with plenty of unscheduled stops. The article contains links to other wonderful, woefully overlooked sites in the area. https://travel.gaijinpot.com/izumi-crane-observation-center/